Richard assembled the liners for the cockpit doors. I’d previously given the oak trim one coat of Impreg and two of gloss varnish whilst Darren had primed, undercoated and top coated the marine plywood liner. The door liners will be fitted into the rear doors.
Darren then suggested the entire oak trim and painted marine ply liners be given another coat of gloss varnish. At his recent painting course Phil Speight had told the class paint “breathes” whilst varnish does not. Varnishing the paint gives it a water resistant coating. Apparently Phil also said varnishing the entire exterior surface of a newly painted boat will give it a much better look. Although it will need a repeat coat every couple of years!
The cratch floor was given an undercoat this morning and a first coat of gloss in the afternoon.
Undercoat
As the entire cratch is now under cover the final coat will be applied tomorrow morning irrespective of the weather. The stern deck will be somewhat harder to paint as it’s exposed to the elements.
Bruce (Sanity) left a comment on the blog asking where the lockable fuel caps had been sourced. I asked Nick today and was informed the marina purchased them from ASAP Supplies.
6 comments :
you may have good voltage but how many amps are going into the batteries?
Tom, Just a word of caution for anybody contemplating buying the fuel filler security lock. Just like the ones in Midland Chandlers they have three screw holes, whilst many of the original fuel inlets fitted have four, and therefore don't match. Both can be seen in MC and are produced by the same company - DUHH!
John,
You are correct (3 holes). It's one of the reasons why I have a 5mm Tap and 4.5mm HSS drill bit :-)
I suspect the solar array isn't feeding the domestic battery bank with any amps as we've always been on shore power and the batteries are always at 100%. No doubt we'll find out what the panels can produce once the umbilical cords is cut :-)
Tom
Quite understand the ability to cut new holes. Not being a great DIY man myself, can you suggest how to do it in this instance without putting steel debris into the fuel tank. Any ideas gratefully received.
Hello John,
I would assume there are a number of ways but our approach was the remove the old fitting (4 holes) and then mark the new (3 hole) fitting positions. Plug the hole (rag) and drill the new holes. Clean the swarf with the a vacuum whilst drilling each hole. Tap each hole (continue to remove swarf with vacuum). Reapply construction adhesive to seal the fitting and screw down with stainless steel (or brass if appropriate) machine screws. Any small amounts of swarf which might fall inside the tank will fall to the bottom. They shouldn't rust in diesel and your fuel take-off point in the tank should be above the base.
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