Sunday 13 August 2023

Bungle Bungles

Our priority was sourcing a suitable replacement bolt for the camper trailer and with that in mind we headed towards the nearest town, Halls Creek.  As soon as we had mobile phone coverage I called the trailer supplier in Perth and requested he send two replacement bolts by airmail express to Kununurra, which would be our next significant town after Halls Creek.

By 8.30am we had reached Halls Creek and promptly went to the caravan park to inquire about a campsite.  I thought it might take a full day to find a bolt.  To my surprise the park manager told us whilst she had a vacancy she didn't want us setting up as some of the existing patrons hadn't risen.  We were told to come back at 10:30am.  Turning away business doesn't seem a good strategy.  In the end we didn't spend a night in Halls Creek which was our gain and her loss.

Eventually we found a mechanical workshop away from the main road.  It obviously served the local community rather than passing traffic.  Carlin rummaged though a couple of boxes of old bolts and whilst we did manage to find several used suspension bolts none of them were a suitable replacement.  Our existing temporary bolt would have to do.

Leaving Halls Creek we headed 100km north to Springs Creek Rest Area.  This is a free 24 hour rest area opposite the entrance into Purnululu National Park.  We arrived at midday and by late afternoon the area was full.  More caravans arrived after dark, eventually having to camp alongside a track beside the sealed rest area.

After disconnecting the trailer and setting up our campsite we headed into Purnululu National Park.   The sign at the junction stated the road was only suitable for 4WD vehicles (it was accurate!)  It was unsealed with numerous creek crossings.  The first 40km pass through Marbel Down Station before reach the park visitor centre.  After paying the entrance fee I asked the ranger which area was the most attractive.  It was recommended we visit Picaninny (the Bungle Bungles) and then watch the sunset from Kungkalanayi Lookout.

The Bungle Bungles look like giant beehives.  They were formed over millions of years from sand and gravel that was compressed by sediment, raised by the collision of tectonic plates, and sculpted by wind, rain, and moving water.  The orange-red bands are coloured by iron and manganese, while the grey-black stripes are a cyanobacterial crust—ancient living organisms that help the sand keep its shape.

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We walked the 2.5km trail into Cathedral Gorge

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An then walked the longer trail to the lookout

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View from the lookout

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The termite mounds get larger

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By the time we walked back to the 4WD it was an hour to sunset. 

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Kungkalanayi Lookout

Guess who forgot to take a photo of the sunset!

It was a 90 minute drive in the dark back to the campsite where Carlin cooked a late dinner.  Some type of chicken and rice dish with a Green Thai sauce and Bok Choi.  Tasted very nice. 

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