Gibb River Road

The Gibb River Road is a popular tourist journey between Kununurra and Derby.  It is 660km long with a bitumen section at either end.  The unsealed portion is 470km between Pentecost River and Lennard River.  There are numerous river crossings and long stretches of road with heavy corrugations, loose gravel, potholes and/or rocks.  It's not the type of road you would travel in a 2WD vehicle and any caravan would need to be constructed for offroad travel.

Five days previously we had heard the road had been closed after a tropical storm had washed away a section.  This next photo is from the WA Main Roads showing the extent of the damage.

It's currently the "dry season" and also the "tourist season" which suggested to me the main roads department would be furiously carrying out repairs.  That proved to be correct and the road was re-opened the day prior to our departure from Kununurra.

At the eastern end, the road is sealed almost to the Pentecost River.  It was here that we came upon several motorhomes parked beside the road with the occupants looking at the crossing.

No doubt they realised this was the furthest west they would be going.  Whilst we were waiting to see what the motorhomes would do two vehicles towing outback caravans approached from the opposite direction and slowly forded the river.

Once they had crossed we engaged 4WD 1st gear and allowed the Isuzu to "walk" the trailer across.  The river bed was rocky and uneven.  Allowing the vehicle to cross with the engine in idle made for a smoother ride.  This was the first of many river crossings on the road.  Several days later we saw a motorhome heading in the opposite direction and I thought "You are almost going to reach the end of the road before having to retrace you route!" 

Another crossing

Around 3pm we started looking for a campsite finding a track on the right that led to a clear area beside the creek.  There was already one caravan camped.  A family from NSW doing "the big lap"

Our campsite for the night

Carlin wanted a tasty meal and some variety with the menu.  He cooked!  He also decided to bath in the creek whilst I decided I didn't want to be a croc's dinner!

The next day we continued on to Mount Barnett Roadhouse.  This is one of the few fuel outlets on the road and fuel is priced accordingly.  We were carrying sufficient diesel to avoid having to pay the high price. 

Carlin wandered into the roadhouse for a look whilst I noticed that; unlike the Great Central Road; the fuel bowsers were not in a locked cage.  Must be more civilized around here

The roadhouse had an interesting wall covered in vehicle licence plates.  One assumes these are from vehicles that didn't survive the road?

On his return Carlin informed me he had purchased a day ticket to visit the nearby Manning Gorge. 

It was a 10km drive down a private track to reach the carpark which was also a camping ground with facilities.  The area was obviously popular as there were many caravans. 

An "off road" tour bus was also present.  It was the first of a number of these tour buses we saw during the trip.

Most of the passengers appeared to be elderly (OK my age!) on a fully supported tour where tents are provided along with meals and a guide

  

It was a this point Carlin mentioned we would need to swim the river followed by a 2.5km walk to reach the gorge.  Hadn't I already mentioned croc's!

A plastic drum had been provided to carry possessions across the river (camera, etc).  But it was on the far bank.  Carlin swam over to fetch it and towed it back for us to use.  Meanwhile I watched from the bank.  Whilst standing watching I was approached by a male who said "Do you know there are croc's in the river……  I saw one over there!" pointing upstream.   It was unlikely to be a saltwater croc this far inland.  More likely a fresh water croc which are much more timid.  Never the less I swam across as silently as possible.

There was a well marked and worn track on the opposite bank

When we reached the head of the gorge there was a waterfall along with approximately 50 men, women and children all swimming or relaxing.  We spent a pleasant hour cooling off after our walk in before returning to the river.  It was an interesting site.  However unlike many of the other campers, I wouldn't want to spend a week there.

Later that day we found another track on left down which we located a quiet campsite.  Finding "free" campsites on the Gibb River Road can be quite difficult as both sides are private cattle stations where most of the side roads have a locked gate.

The next day we visited Leonard River Gorge.  The entrance to the access road was just past 'Dog Chain Creek'.  Got to love some of the local place names!

Another gorge with a 2-3km walk in.  This time up a river bed and then over a hill.

The obligatory waterfall from the lookout.

Then we had to retrace our route back to the 4WD.

For someone my age the stony surface of the marked walking track required some concentration in order to avoid twisting an ankle.  Carlin appeared to skip over the surface.

Several kilometres later we were back on the bitumen having completed the "rough" part of the road.  I was feeling pleased with the trailer as the bolt we had purchased in Kununurra hadn't failed and there was little sign of the tyre tread excessively wearing due to potential wheel misalignment.

Perhaps I was premature with my thoughts as 5km out of Broome the air in the "Tyre of Last Resort" went to the top. The tread on a section of the tyre had completely delaminated destroying the tyre.  I can't really complain as the tyre was 14 years old and free.  It had lasted from the end of the Duncan Road all the way across the Gibb River Road. 

We will have to look for a replacement in Broome!