Saturday 16 March 2024

The HAT

After a week of watching the postman pass our letterbox on his e-trike yesterday he finally stopped and delivered the Raspberry Pi Jan had ordered from the UK.  It was the final component for my latest Raspberry Pi 5 project.

A desktop computer has a motherboard.  When a sub-board is plugged into the motherboard the sub-board is usually called a daughterboard.  It's slightly different with a Raspberry Pi.  The added sub-board is referred to as a HAT (Hardware Added on Top).  

In my case the HAT is actually a "Bottom Board" and fits underneath the Raspberry Pi.  The new HAT will enable me to convert the Raspberry Pi storage from a micro SD Card to a NVMe storage module.  The latter is much faster and more reliable.

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(Clockwise left to right) NVMe M.2 512GB storage module,  Raspberry PI 5 with heatsink and fan. NVMe Bottom Hat

I made several trial assemblies before being satisfied with the final configuration.

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After starting the Raspberry Pi the operating system was transferred from the micro SD Card to the NVMe module.  Next, I needed to change the Boot configuration file to ensure the computer would boot from the new Bottom Hat.  Then the Raspberry Pi was then turned off, the micro SD Card removed, and the system restarted.  

Wow…. It is so much faster!

The plan is to use it  to replace the existing energy hungry desktop computer, which is our dedicated network media server. 

The current heatwave has meant each time there has been a slightly cooler day I've gone for a training bike ride.

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I've been attempting to establish what distance I can potentially cycle with assistance from the lithium battery.  To date I've been able to cycle 80km using less than 50% of the battery capacity so I should be able to travel 160km with the 19Ah battery.   Yesterday I purchased a 40Ah battery from Aliexpress which will be delivered to the UK.  Based on my current experience it should be good for 360km or more.

The other outdoor tasking I've been working on is a modification to the sockets on the outback camper trailer.  There are four external Anderson sockets.  One on either side of the trailer as inputs for the portable solar panels.  The third is a 12V outlet and the fourth is the input for a 12V battery charger.  

When the sockets were initially installed I tried to complete the task "on the cheap" by just using the Anderson plugs.   This hasn't proved to be a successful as I want.  Despite me sealing the back of the plugs with silicon the fine Australian bulldust gets into the terminal area at the front.   I've now purchased four Anderson plug mounting enclosures in an effort to resolve the issue.

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The task is taking longer than expected because I've discovered it's only comfortable to do the work early in the morning and just before dusk.  The rest of the time it's just too hot!

Sunday 10 March 2024

E-sim, Communications & Modifications

Late last year we replaced our two Samsung 4 mobile phones I had purchased in 2012 whilst in Riyadh.  They worked, but the battery life was considerably shortened after 11 years of use.

After some research they were replaced with two relatively cheap Oppo A58 phones.  We hardly use our phones and don't use mobile data, so reliable and cheap were the main criteria.

I'm going to need mobile data during my planned Europe cycling holiday.  Probably voice as well as I will likely have to make calls for accommodation reservations.  Hence the need to research mobile phone plans.  I'll need a plan for 40+ days with a good data allowance.   An electronic SIM card (e-SIM) looked a good option until I discovered the Oppo A58 didn't have the required internal e-SIM hardware.

Then I discovered esim.me.   This is a device that looks like a SIM card but actually adds the e-SIM functionality to the phone in lieu of a conventional SIM card.  It doesn't work with all phones, but apparently the Oppo A58 is one that it does work with.  The basic esim plan will work on one phone and costs EU24.95 (A$50).   Obviously I'd need to add the $50 to any e-SIM plan when doing a comparison with other plans.

It didn't take me long to establish the esim.me + e-SIM was more expensive than a conventional SIM plan.  Eventually I selected the Orange Holiday Europe 50GB plan valid for 28 days (A$82).  It comes with a French phone number.  Obviously I'll need to renew it to cover the entire period I'm in Europe.  That will require me to "complete a Know Your Customer (KYC) process to keep using it after the first 30 days as per French law".  I'll need to research this condition.  Switzerland and the UK are not in the EU but the plan includes both of them. 

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There have also been a couple of minor modifications to the bike.

I had realised I had a spare waterproof male/female 2 pin cable from the grandson's AIS Antenna project which could be used to make a connection for the bike headlight.   The headlight was permanently wired to the bike and fitting a plug would enable it to be removed when the bike was being packed.

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The second modification was to the front carrier rack.  I cut the steel bow off.

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The bow was at 90° to the carrier base and whilst it wasn't in the way, removing the bow makes it much easier to dismantle and pack the rack.  I filled the cut off hollow ends of the tube with body filler before painting them with high gloss black.

Friday 8 March 2024

Re-positioning the Bags

After making several cycling trips with the loaded new front pannier bags attached it became apparent they were adversely affecting the bike balance and steering.  I could probably have accustomed myself to the imbalance, but decided to see if the bags could be re-positioned.

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In the above photo you can see the bags were originally attached to the top of the front carrier rack.

This next photo shows them attached to the lower horizontal carrier bar.

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This lower bar isn't parallel to the ground and consequentially the bags are on an angle.  The original purpose of the lower bar is to both prevent the bags touching the front wheel and provide a lower anchor support for the bag. 

However in this lower position the bags can't touch the wheel as the bottom of the bag rests against the arm of the bike fork.   I was concerned the bags might flap around, but that hasn't happened.

The steering and balance has significantly improved and I'm now regularly going on training rides with all four loaded bags attached to the bike.

Planning for the long cycling trip continues as I research more detail.   An accurate gpx track for EuroVelo 15 (The Rhine Route) has been completed.  I'm now adding camping grounds as waypoints.

Eurovelo 5 is slightly more problematic.  The start point is Canterbury, UK and the finish is Brindisi, in southern Italy.  It reputedly follows the original pilgrims route to Rome.  However there are numerous sections of the route that are undeveloped.  I have assumed this means there is no designated cycle path.  Consequentially I've been examining maps and tracing out my own route between the developed sections.   One of my route criteria is to avoid, where possible, main roads.  I've been assisted with this by using Hike and Bike country maps downloaded from the internet.  These are then installed into the Garmin Mapsource or BaseCamp programs.   To identify places of interest and campsites I'm using the Open Street Map and Google Maps. 

After my experience cycling in Taiwan I don't trust Google Maps for route planning.  However it is useful to find campsites, along with their contact details.

My search for a suitable ebike battery continues.   I've also done some preliminary research on flights.   The bare bike weighs 24.5Kg.  To this I need to add the components removed from the bike for air travel, along with my panniers and gear.  Consequentially I'll need a baggage allowance of two bags with a combined weight of not less than 40Kg.  The options are to fly Economy class and pay for excess baggage, or upgrade to  Premium economy which has a greater baggage allowance (depending upon the airline).  The cost of economy plus excess baggage is very similar to premium economy.  Any fool can be uncomfortable and I'll probably travel using the latter.   Cathay Pacific looks like the best option.

Still to be identified:

  • Best mobile phone plan
  • Preferred options for crossing the English Channel

Thursday 22 February 2024

Another Two….

Another package arrive from China yesterday.  You might recall I mentioned the weight of the bike trailer was seriously eating into my flight baggage allowance.  Consequentially I didn't take it on the last cycling holiday in Taiwan electing instead to use rear pannier bags.  However on that trip I didn't take any camping gear.

Yesterday's delivery consisted of two 7 litre panniers for the bike front rack, also purchased from China.  The bags have been packed with the tent, mattress and sleeping bag.

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The setup looks OK (not yet tested) although I have a concern with the rack.  There is a metal bow (top arrow) that forms part of the horizontal platform (bottom arrow).  This means when the rack is disassembled for packing this component forms a large "L" shape which will be difficult to pack.  I'm thinking of cutting off the bow.  My feeling is the bow is there to stop items on the rack sliding back against the bike frame.  This isn't relevant for my purposes as the bike headlight already protrudes through the bow and I don't intend to place anything on the flat portion of the rack.

There has been further research for the planned Eurovelo trip.  

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I've added 100km route markers, adjacent camping grounds and tourist attractions.  If I cycle 100Km daily, six days every week, I should be able to complete the route in six weeks.  Yesterday I cycled 75Km in three hours.  An average of 25km/h.  I should therefore be able to cycle 100Km in eight hours whilst allowing myself rest and sightseeing stops.

Meanwhile another project is starting.   Today a NVMe M.2 SSD storage stick was delivered.

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It's one of four components I need for my new Raspberry Pi project.  The other three are the Raspberry Pi 5 computer, a Pi bottom hat for the SSD and a case.  The plan is to build a cheap, low powered media server.

Thursday 15 February 2024

Bl**dy Pedestrians

Frustration sets in when riding along the cycle path you come upon pedestrians with plugs in their ears to stop their brains leaking out whilst simultaneously burying their eyes and nose into a small flat device.  Hearing and seeing nothing they are totally 'situationally unaware'.  Ringing the bell has no effect.  What can make it even worse is they are on the designated bike path when there is an adjacent  pedestrian path 10-20 metres to one side.

plank  

The diy selfie stick mounting bracket needs a bolt to secure it to the bike handlebars.  That wasn't an issue, but the nut was.    The mounting bracket needs to be able to swivel, which means loosing and re-tightening the bolt.  My solution was to order a large wingnut from Aliexpress

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The smaller Ulanzi bracket is being used whilst waiting for the wingnut to be delivered.

This raised another issue.  The camera started to vibrate on the bracket.  Eventually the problem was identified as a loose joint. (upper arrow in the photo below)

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It appeared to be the only joint on the bracket unable to be tightened.  The steel shaft is held in place with a pin (lower red arrow).  However, when viewed through a magnifying glass (yes.. I'm that old) the pin appeared to be a grubscrew.  Using a 1.5mm Hex Key I was able to tighten the screw which removed the movement in the joint. A result. 

Saturday 10 February 2024

Damn Electronics

My knowledge of electronics is very limited.  My brother is the electronics engineer in the family!

This brings me to my current problem with our grandson's yacht diy AIS Transmitter project.  I've been able to work out a method for powering the device remotely.  However it also need to be able to turn it on/off remotely.  The problem is the existing switch on the transmitter.  It's a magnetic switch!

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There is a magnetic sensor on the end of the printed circuit board.  I'm guessing it is some type of reed switch. 

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Embedded in the back of the rotary switch is a small piece of metal.  When the rotary switch is in the ON position the metal is away from the switch and the LED illuminates. 

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Simply removing the rotary switch means the transmitter is always ON.

I could glue the small piece of metal to the magnetic switch but the transmitter would then be always OFF.  Obviously I need to identify how to bypass the magnetic switch.  This is where my lack of electronics is exposed.

In the photo below the lower red arrow points to the pos & neg terminals from the battery.  I can't put a switch into the positive connection (wire) as the transmitter will still receive power from the main supply.  I suspect upper red arrow might point to the component that needs to be switched?

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If I can't figure this out there is a fallback option.  I could remotely switch both the power from the batteries in the device and the 12V supply going up the mast.   More thinking required.

Friday 9 February 2024

A Puddle and Deliveries

Today's plans went out the window shortly after I woke.  Upon visiting the smallest room in the house I discovered a puddle.  My immediate thought was "Perhaps Jan had an accident during a nocturnal visit?"    However Jan mentioned she had discovered the puddle when visiting the room in the wee hours <pun intended>.   Obviously there was a leak which needed to be rectified.

Having no prior experience with this particular device it was slow progress working out how to remove the cistern.  Eventually I managed to separate the cistern from the lower bowl only to hear the sound of two nuts falling off inside the cavity behind the bowl.

With the cistern removed I could see what had happened.  Instead of the two securing screws inside the cistern being removed the nuts on the ends of the threaded "dogs" had been unscrewed and dropped off.

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Holes where the "dogs" fit.

The circular opening in the top of the bowl are too small for my hand so I resorted to taping a bent piece of 16 gauge wire onto a length of 5mm timber dowel to recover the nuts and washers.

I could now see what had caused the nuts to unscrew from the dogs.  When the toilet was installed the plumber had applied sealer to the screws which had locked them into the dogs.  Rather than the screws unscrewing from the dogs the entire screw and dog had rotated unscrewing the nuts on the underside of the dogs.

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The braided hose was replaced and then the toilet reassembled.

The major problem was fitting the washers and nuts back onto the underside of the dogs.  I used the piece of 16 gauge wire to position the washers and nuts below the hole before carefully screwing in the dogs from above.  Next the nuts then had to be secured from below whilst the dogs were tightened from above.  I made a temporary spanner from some scrap flat bar to achieve this.

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Dog and nut

The cistern could then be secured through its base with the two screws.  But not before I'd removed all the old sealer and cleaned the threads.  Before tightening the screws I applied replacement silicone sealer.

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The toilet will have to remain out of action until I'm satisfied the sealer has set. 

That was the morning wasted!

Meanwhile we had a couple of deliveries.  Jan's new appliance arrived from England via DHL.  It only took five days for the journey.  Which begs the question…. Why does it take more than five days for Australia Post to deliver a letter across the city?  I cut the UK plug off the cord and replaced it with a spare AS/NZ version. 

The second deliver was something Jan had ordered for me.

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A collapsible silicon bowl and mug for my planned cycling trip

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Very lightweight and compact

Wednesday 7 February 2024

Rehearsal

Whilst it's not confirmed, should I cycle in Europe later this year I will need to camp.  There may be some nights where I'll use a hostel or hotel.  However the cost will preclude me from doing it every night.

I bought a small tent in 2022 and took it on my first Taiwan trip.  It never got used as accommodation was well within my budget.  Today seemed a good opportunity to check the tent as I've only erected it once.  Rain in Europe at some stage is a distinct possibility, which means I need to know how to pitch the tent swiftly to avoid wet bedding.

The tent comes in its own bag and I noticed it felt heavier than I had anticipated.

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Inside is the tent inner, the fly, a bag of tent poles with a smaller bag containing steel pegs.

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Thinking logically about the erection sequence suggested assembling the poles should be the first step.  This avoids leaving the tent inner out in the rain whilst assembling the poles.  It would also be logical to carry the poles and pegs separate from the tent.

The next step is to peg out the inner and insert the poles.

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The tent has an entrance on one side only.  I need to know which side opens when pegging out the collapsed base.  To achieve this I marked the corner peg straps on the door side with yellow marker pen.

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This needed to be repeated with the fly which also only opens on one side only.  Obviously I want to avoid erecting the tent with the inner opening on one side and the fly opening on the other.  Especially if it's raining!

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There is a small ventilation opening at ether end of the fly.

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The biggest issue with nylon tents is condensation.  We humans pump out a significant amount of humidity which can be trapped on the inside of the fly.  The vents will allow some of it to escape.  Hopefully most of the remainder will run down the inside of the fly and drip onto the ground.  There is a gap between the base of the inner and the fly to prevent any condensation entering the inner.

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My idea of using the bike pump to inflate the air mattress is a failure.  The output from the pump is so small it would take 12 months to inflate the mattress Smile  I reverted to the old method of lying on my back with the deflated mattress on top of me and blowing it up using my mouth.  In this position I limit the amount of saliva entering the mattress.

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Previously I've rolled up some clothes to use as a pillow.  This time I've treated myself to a $4 inflatable pillow.  The sleeping bag is from Aldi and very lightweight (thin) I'm hoping I'll be warm enough.  However I will also take a long-sleeved thermal vest, thermal long johns and some possum merino socks should the lightweight bag be insufficient.  I can always don a fleece if it becomes necessary. 

More rehearsals are now required. 

Tuesday 6 February 2024

Selfie Stick Mounting Bracket

The bike selfie stick mounting bracket is quite strong but very limited in movement.  Only the vertical angle can be adjusted which limits recorded camera foot to the front or above.  I'd also like to be able to capture footage from the left and right.

The selfie stick has an M6 threaded hole in the end which I assume is for mounting purposes.

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The thread only extends approximately 10mm into the handle of the stick and I suspect the weight of the camera on the end of the stick bouncing around on a moving bike would probably cause the connection to fail.

I decided to make a prototype selfie stick mounting bracket by modifying the existing bracket.  It needed to be made for anything I had in my "useful one day" storage area.  There was a piece of steel flat bar surplus to my making of lawn edger blades.   After applying some heat I was able to bend it to the required shape before pot riveting a small piece of surplus pvc water pipe onto the end.

It looks like this

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The M6 bolt in the end of the handle will be replaced with a spare wing nut bolt I'll cut to length.

I'm also going to add Sikaflex around the connection between the steel and the piece of pvc pipe.

Finally, I'll replace the M6 nut that secures the new bracket to the mount with a M6 Wing Bolt and spring washer.

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The last task will be painting everything.

My new bracket should now add 180° (or more) lateral selfie stick movement.  If I've done this right I should now be able to record myself riding the bike from either side.  Well that's the theory.

Wednesday 31 January 2024

Two Year Bicycle Review

It's two years since I recommenced cycling after a 40 year gap.  This return to cycling occurred as a consequence of my feet giving me grief when walking.  Pre-diabetic was the medical diagnose.  I needed to lose weight and see a podiatrist for orthotics.  Around this time I'd started to become bored walking the same daily local routes.  I thought cycling would have less impact loading on my feet and extend my travelling allowing me to view more locations.

I didn't want to spend much on a bike and clothing.  Eventually I selected a Merida Crossway 20 from a local bicycle shop which happened to be discounted.  The clothing consisted of an $8 Hi-Viz work shirt.  After a couple of rides the shirt was followed by a pair of cycling shorts and riding gloves.  My helmet was the cheapest I could find.  After being hit in the face by a large bug (fortunately it missed my eye) I bought a pair of $7 tinted safety glasses from the local hardware store.  On my feet I wear trainers and cotton socks.

The bike had front and rear derailleurs which provided 24 gears.   

It didn't take me long to realise a budget bike consists of budget components.  There was nothing particularly wrong with the bike, but I did struggle with two things.  The handlebars we so low I was always bent over.  My bad back made that clearly known.  The second issue was the derailleurs.  They always seemed to be moving out of alignment.

Knowing nothing about modern bike construction I initially attempted to raise the handlebars by loosening the top bolt and lifting them.  Modern bike aren't built that way!  My solution was to buy a stem extension from Aliexpress.  The longest one I could find!

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This took the strain off my back as I could now ride in a more upright position.

After some research I decided to replace the derailleurs with an internally geared hub (IGH).  I narrowed my choice to either a Rohloff or Shimano Alfine.  The Rohloff is the better hub, but it's very expensive.  The Alfine was a third of the price.  Having decided on the Alfine I wasn't prepared to pay the Australian price, eventually managing to purchase one from Germany. 

I took it to a specialist wheel maker in Perth and had him fit it.

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The removal of the derailleurs meant the chain no longer needs to flex horizontally.  The cog on the Alfine is in a straight line with the main ring gear.  This became important.

I wanted to keep riding the bike whilst the Alfine hub was being fitted so I asked the wheel maker to fit it to a new rim and spokes.  This proved to be another fortuitous decision as he suggested a stronger rim and spokes for the heavier Alfine Hub.  The subsequently meant I could tow a trailer or carry pannier bags 

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The original tyres and tubes proved to be very thin and I quickly started to incur punctures from tiny thorns scattered around the local area.  That resulted in two more decisions.  The need for a puncture repair and toolkit carried in a small bag under the seat.

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And a bike pump.  This is my third pump.  The previous two from Aliexpress fell apart.

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I also replaced the original tyres and tubes.  No punctures since.

My cycling was taking me further afield and whilst my brain was enjoying the variety in scenery whilst my body was objecting to the more strenuous parts of the ride.

I started researching e-bikes and quickly realised purchasing a proprietary e-bike had two major disadvantages.  The first was cost.  They are very expensive!  The second was you become locked into the manufacturers "system".  Particularly the battery.  Each manufacturer appears to have their own battery shape.  I didn't want to buy an expensive e-bike only to discover in 5-7 years they no longer stock that battery.

My plan was to convert the Merida to an e-bike by fitting an electric motor and I opted for the most common street legal version.  A Bafang 36V 250W BBS01.  I waited for the Chinese 11-11 sales where I was able to buy the Bafang kit at a very discounted price 

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I also bought the largest 36V battery could find at that time.  A 19.2Ah. P1030657I

The Bafang kit came with cranks, a main gear ring, speed sensor, LCD Display, throttle control, brake sensors and gear sensor.  The seller included a front headlight powered by the battery as a "gift".

I modified the existing brake levers to accept the Bafang brake sensors and started riding my e-bike.  Hills were no longer a major obstacle.  My fitness also improved as a gradually weaned myself off battery power.

My cycling range started to increase which made me think about improving the efficiency of the bike.  Removing the derailleurs and fitting the Alfine IGH allowed a straight chain whilst the Bafang provided more power.  I replaced the original chain with a stronger single speed chain (which didn't need to flex).  I also replaced the Bafang chain ring with a blue alloy version from Aliexpress.

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I suspect the chain ring is a counterfeit version of the NZ Lekkie Ring.  The teeth on the ring are alternately thick and thin to match the wide and narrow gaps in the chain links

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I also replaced the original Bafang plastic gear cover with a red alloy Lekkie plate.

At this point I had become sufficiently confident with the bike and my own physical condition to take it on a cycling trip around Taiwan towing a trailer.

The trip went well although my posterior did suffered on a daily basis from the saddle. 

On my return to Perth I purchased an expensive "Brooks" UK leather saddle believing the marketing hype "After a few weeks the saddle will conform to your shape and you will feel like you a riding in a hammock"    Numerous applications of leather softener and six months later the saddle is now better than the original.  Although I still get a sore posterior Smile 

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My first Aliexpress handlebar bag started breaking apart at the seams during my Taiwan trip.  Probably because I attempted to place too many heavy items into it.

I've now replaced it with a larger bag which is insulated

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I use it to carry my wallet, power banks and snacks.

Two Aliexpress water bottle holders have been mounted to the frame top bar.  I've attempted to locate them on various parts of the bike eventually settling on the top bar.

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At some stage during my cycling I buckled the front wheel.  The local wheel maker assembled a new one using the same strong rim and spokes as the rear wheel.

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During my second trip to Taiwan the Bafang brake sensors I had fitted to the original brake levers started to separate.   On my return to Perth the entire brake lever assembly was replaced with a new assembly which had the sensors integrated.

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I also damaged the power controller when my cycling glove caught the edge of one of the buttons breaking it.  The power controller is part of the display mechanism which meant I needed a new display. The one I selected has recessed buttons on the power controller and a coloured display

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Power Controller, manual throttle controller and bell.

During my first Taiwan trip the phone holder broke.  I made a temporary repair using a condom (found beside the bed in the motel - I didn't take one with me!).  I replaced the holder with something more substantial.

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Another thing that broke on my first trip to Taiwan was a cheap bike stand.  It was replaced with a much stronger version.  Although it had to be modified to fit the bike

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The two latest modifications are the replacement of the Bafang cranks and the original plastic pedals.

I'm rather pleased with the current status of the bike.  I can ride up to 80km and still have 60% charge in the battery.  I'm almost amused when I look at the bike and realise the only original components on it are the frame, brake callipers and seat stem. 

Are there any planned future modifications or alterations to the bike?  Probably not!  Although I am wondering if I will need a front rake and panniers if I decide to take a long trip involving camping.  I should do a test pack to see if all the gear will fit on the rear.

Dave,

Thanks for the tip.  I'll do some research on availability in the UK.

Ade,

I suspect you will have identified there are plenty of e-bike options.   My opinion is the high price of manufactured e-bikes is being driven by the 'economies of scale'.   That is; too many manufacturers for a small market.  Aftermarket e-bike conversions are cheaper because the same motor fits many bikes.