Round the Mountain - Day 1

 The signed time to complete the Tongariro Cross track is five hours.  In order to almost ensure we were able to get a bed space at Waihohonu Hut we needed to be walking by 8.00AM at the latest. 

Both of us were up early and sat down to have a big cooked breakfast.  Sausages (I’m saving the savaloys), eggs, baked beans and toast.

Being a popular and well used track it has a well formed surface with gentle rises and descents.  

Mt Ruapehu was visible on our right shoulder and Mt Ngauruhoe to our half left.  The terrain is mostly open tussock covered alpine desert. 

Ngauruhoe with Upper Tama Lake in the middle ground

It was cold at the beginning however our brisk walking pace soon had me warmed up and I found myself removing my rain jacket and woollen beanie.  Actually this was the only time I wore the beanie during the day. 

We had been steadily overtaking slower walkers and as they weren’t carrying packs I assumed they were doing a day crossing.  Three hours into the walk we started to meet walkers going in the opposite direction.  None of them were carrying packs either.

Ngauruhoe is now behind us

Waihohonu Hut is the largest in the National Park and one of the newest.  It’s nestled in a sheltered location against the edge of an alpine Beech forest.  The Hut has three dormitories and 30 beds.  Mattresses are supplied and there is a wood burning stove.  Water is captured off the hut roof and stored in a tank.  Signs state all water should be boiled.  I noticed the water had a slight carbon taste, probably due to volcanic ash settling on the roof!  There is a long drop toilet.  Before leaving the caravan park I decided it might be prudent if I took a small quantity of toilet paper in a plastic bag.  My plumbing is weak and noisy and I might get caught short on the trail.

Carlin took some video footage which I’ve roughly edited and inserted below. 

If any of our readers know how to insert a video into Open Live Writer I would appreciate instructions

We reached the hut in just under four hours finding three others already there.  By 3PM all the beds had been taken and more hikers were arriving.  By 7PM there were 50 people at the hut making for an interesting night.

I had a conversation with one of the group of three that were at the hut when we arrived.  She informed me there were 50 in the hut the previous night which she though unsurprising, given it was a weekend and school holidays.  The other interesting fact was only three people had entered their details into the hut visitors book!  Perhaps some people weren't buying the hut tickets?

Dinner was roast beef and vegetables.  The meat was sliced thin and then diced.  I assume that makes it easier to dehydrate and reconstitute.  I wasn’t particularly enamoured with the taste… but then it’s only fuel. 

A surprise awaited me at the long drop.  No toilet paper!  That’s when I realised my small emergency supply would have to last six days.  Particular care would need to be taken with personal hygiene.  I would also need to ensure my dehydrated food was fully reconstituted.

Hell... my goal is to walk around THAT!

It was a noisy night as the hut occupants included two separate scout groups.  Not only did they talk at the top of their voices but most of them were born in a tent.

We woke early exiting our dormitory into the main hut area to discover the late arrivals from the previous day sleeping on and under the tables and spread across the floor.  Six very late arrivals had slept outside on the deck and were covered in frost!

Carlin had porridge for breakfast whilst I ate a freeze dried sausage and eggs with hash browns.  It just looked like mush.

We were one of the first groups to leave and from what we could establish we would be the only people heading around Ruapehu.