A Grey and Cloudy Day

This would be a very scenic road on a fine and sunny day.  Unfortunately for me that wasn't the case.  At least it wasn't raining.  To my surprise, despite the forecast, and the menacing clouds, it didn't actually rain on me.  The roads were wet and there were puddles, which meant I did get covered in road spray from the occasional passing vehicle.  However most of it came from my own wheels and I finished the day with a brown streak up my back.

Glancing out to sea I could see small black dots bobbing around in the water

Surfers……   I suppose if you are already wet rain doesn't bother you

Cycling around one headland I came upon a small fishing harbour.  Truth be known I passed several of them but this was the only one where I was able to stop on the narrow road and take a photo.

Approximately two thirds of the way along the route I came to Old Caoling Tunnel.  I needed to make a  decision.  I could cycle through the 2km tunnel or go around the headland. 

Old Caoling Tunnel is a former railway tunnel built by the Japanese when they occupied Taiwan.  When the railway was realigned a new tunnel was built and the old one converted to a tourist bike path.  I decided to take the tunnel option.  

There are bicycle rental companies each end.

The ladies wanted a 'selfie' after cycling the strenuous 2km   I patiently waited with my legs happy to have a rest.

The coastline became slightly more attractive

After 80km I reached Shuinandong.  My destination for the day was the picturesque touristy town of Jiufen, which was inland and so I turned away from the coastal road.  Almost immediately the road started to climb.  AND CLIMB!  It was STEEP!  Mostly hairpin bends as it rapidly climbed into the ranges.  I thought to myself "What a way to finish a long day of riding".

Then not only did I have to contend with the steepness of the road but also tourist traffic.  Damned mini coaches would just stop in front of me to disgorge their clients.

This is Golden Waterfall

I kept climbing eventually realising Google Maps had taken me away from the main road (and traffic) onto a lesser road which was still very steep.  I rested (numerous times) on a bend and took a photo back towards the coast

 

Rather hard to see in the dull photo but the hills are dotted with abandoned gold mines.

I reached Jiufen at 2PM and immediately started searching for accommodation.

Temple Day

Looking out my motel window this morning I could see it was overcast but no rain.  Seizing the situation I quickly packed the panniers and was on the road before 8AM.

Today you get temple photos.

OK.  The above is an arch into the village rather than a temple.  The remainder are actual temples seen whilst cycling today.

Statue in the entrance to the temple below

Wet

Woke this morning refreshed after a good night's sleep.  It must have been the result of the steady drone from the air-conditioning unit!

Looked out the window and unsurprisingly it was raining.  I went for a local walk shortly before noon.  There wasn't much to see.

Entrance to the port

You might wonder if I'd stumbled upon an aquarium shop.

It's actually one of three large restaurants on the road adjacent to my motel.   These guys are on the menu.

There would have been half a dozen large tour buses stopped in the street disgorging mainland Chinese tourists.   Obviously they like seafood.

The third restaurant in a row

I was also hungry.  However I wasn't about to enter a restaurant full of mainland Chinese.  Culturally they are incredibly noisy.

On the corner was a 7-Eleven and I resigned myself to another zapped meal.

Pasta with ham and three cheeses sauce.

The 7-Eleven's do sell hot food.

Hot dog machine.  I've eaten them and they are OK.

Sweet Potato.  They seem quite popular but I find the taste bland.

Eggs boiled in tea.  Know as 'Tea Eggs'.  To me they taste like a brown coloured boiled egg.

I was hoping tomorrows weather forecast would be dry.  Unfortunately not!  I've resigned myself to the idea I'm going to get wet from the sky along with being sprayed with dirty water from passing traffic.   It's also going to be a long wet day of cycling as I plan on reaching Jiufen.

 

Su'ao

One habit the military drums into individuals is punctuality.  Even today I can get stressed with the thought I might be late.  It's therefore unsurprising I was at Hualien Railway Station an hour before my train was scheduled to depart.

The ticket stated "Rear Car".  Prior to arriving in Taiwan I had read on the Taiwan Railways website bicycles were limited to slow trains and must travel in the first or last carriage.  In anticipation I bought a tie-down strap from Perth with me so I could secure the bike preventing it from falling in transit.

I did some experimenting with positioning the bike in the carriage.

Today's destination was Su'ao, which would be a mix of train and cycling.

Hualien is on a small plain at the northern end of the Rift Valley.  From this point northwards the mountain range draws very near to the coast. 

As the train headed north I noticed dark clouds starting to build up against the steep hills.s

Several major rivers were crossed

Almost immediately I realised the major industry on this part of Taiwan was aggregate extraction from the alluvial riverbeds.

This was being conveyed either by road or conveyor belts to several crushing and batching plants on the coast where it was either being loaded into rail wagons or several ships at a small port.

The rail line went through numerous tunnels and crossed deep ravines as we headed along the coast.  My subconscious reminded me Taiwan is subject to numerous earthquakes!

Occasionally I caught glimpses of the coastal road which was winding its way around the coastline compared to the railway that cut through it.  

Numerous trucks laden with aggregate were using what appeared to be a narrow road with tight bends.

 

Road cut into the side of the hill

Taking the train was the better option

It had started raining several stations prior to my destination.  On arriving I spent an hour inside the station hoping the rain would cease (it didn't), checking the weather (rain for the rest of my trip) and looking for accommodation.

The original plan was to cycle to Su'ao and do some sightseeing.  The next day I'd cycle to Toucheng and do the same. 

There seemed little point in attempting to see the sights in the rain or get wet for two consecutive days.  I made the decision to stay in Su'ao for two nights. 

The next issue was accommodation.  It's Friday!  Friday and Saturday nights are expensive accommodation nights in Taiwan.  After and hour of research I finally booked two nights in a motel which was within my budget but had very mixed reviews.  I would describe it as old, tired, basic, but clean. 

I've now left Hualien County and arrived in Yilan County.  It's reputedly quite beautiful.  Unfortunately I can't see much of the beauty through the rain.

Rest Day

What to do about dinner last night?  I am getting tired of sandwiches and zapped meals from 7-Eleven's.  Wandering around I passed several expensive looking establishments. Eventually I came upon a Hot Pot restaurant where the prices looked quite reasonable.

After looking at the menu I opted for a seafood hot pot.

If you haven't eaten hot pot before then what you get is a bowl of water and uncooked ingredients.  You then cook these over a gas hot plate on your table.  Essentially you cook your own meal.  I didn't eat the prawn or the cob of corn.  Too hard to peel or pick up with the chopsticks!

This morning I took my cycling clothes to a self-serve laundrette (A$0.15) and spent 30 minutes watching them go around and around.

A small blue painted truck stopped outside.  These small blue trucks are ubiquitous in Taiwan.  Farmers, tradesmen, couriers all seem to own them.  I've been meaning to take a photo of one for days.

The other task for the day was to buy train tickets for the next part of my trip.

The coastal highway between Taroko and Su'ou is narrow and heavily utilised by large vehicles.  It's recommended cyclists take the train.

There was little point in looking at the railway station departure board as it was only displaying todays departures.  Using Google Translate I wrote my requirements on the phone.  "Ticket 27/10/2023 in the morning Hualien to Su'ou one man and bicycle"

Next I walked to the ticket counter.

The young lady behind the counter spoke very good English <a relief>.  TWD$174 (A$8.65) for me and the bike.  The train departs at 9.34AM

On my way back to the hotel I passed the railway station scooter park.

I'm glad I don't have to remember where I left my scooter.

Short Day

A restless night.  My own fault as I should have lowered the air-con temperature.  Too hot to sleep under the duvet and too cold to sleep without it.

Another interesting breakfast that was similar to the previous day.  This time it came with french fries and a small fishcake, along with two omelettes.

I was on the road by 8:30 hoping to beat some of the heat.  Rain was forecast from 3PM onwards.  It was a relatively short ride of approximately 54km.  However there were two steep hills to cross.  At least you know when your start and destination points are at sea level all that hard climbing means there must also be a descent.

. 

After several days of hard riding I was hoping the shorter ride would bring some relief.  Unfortunately my legs were feeling a bit dead.  Then there were the hills.

Top of the first hill looking back.

Halfway down the second hill I was stopped by roadworks being undertaken in a tunnel.

 

I was the first to arrive and as I waited for clearance to go the queue of vehicles became longer.  It was hot waiting out in the sun.  At least when you're moving there is a breeze.

Eventually we were allowed to transit the tunnel.  I held back letting all the waiting vehicles go first.  I didn't fancy sharing a single lane through a tunnel.  As it turned out there were three very long tunnels to transit.  I was pedalling furiously hoping to stay ahead of any vehicle that may have arrived at the tunnel mouth after my entry.

This proved to be the final part of the very hilly sections and for the last 15km it was a relatively flat ride.

Henan Temple - A Buddhist Temple on the coastal road in Shoufeng Township.  On the hill above and immediately behind the temple is a 15m-tall statue of Blessing Avalokitesvara.

After cycling for two hours I turned a bend to see Hualien in the distance.

I plan on spending two nights in Hualien and started looking online for accommodation settling on the Lishin Hotel (3*) which had a special discounted room rate.  My two nights will cost me just under TWD$1600.  By comparison, last night cost TWD$2400.

On arriving at the hotel I was advised I could take the bike to my room.  The room is clean and a reasonable size.  It has a window…. that looks into my bathroom   I don't need a view.  There's probably an advantage in not having one as it would likely be noisy from all the road traffic outside.